Camera Raw Edit
This is the original Photograph I had taken.
I used the 'Camera Raw' feature to make the photograph a green colour, it created the same kind of effect as the image > Adjustments > Colour Balance does, but Camera Raw made the twig more of a silhouette, which is what I wanted, whilst the other option did not.
Hue/Saturation Edit
This is the original Photograph I had taken.
I changed the hue and saturation to these levels, I wanted the yellow flowers to contrast against something darker, like a purple, so I used the magnetic lasso tool around the flowers and then inverted the selection so it was selecting the whole background, apart from the flowers, and then I went to Image > Adjustments > Hue/Saturation and changed the hue/saturation to the darker colour, now the yellow flowers pop out more.
Paint Brush Edit
This is the original Photograph I had taken.
I used the magic wand tool to select different colours and shades on the flower, and then used the brush tool below and 'painted' over the image on a separate layer with the colour we had selected. This makes the flower stand out, not just because the depth of field helps the flower stand out, but because the paint is more bold compared to the actual flowers original form.
Cubism Edit
This is the original Photograph I had taken.
For this slice of the photo I had used hue/saturation, I used a red hue, which surprisingly made the image a kind of gold for the sky and a purple on the trees, these are contrasting colours which actually do go well together.
This slice of the photo I used the gradient map (Image > Adjustments > Gradient Map) to make this part monochrome, the twigs became the darker black whilst the sky or anything with light shining on it was the brighter grey or white. This, like the hue/saturation slice, contrast very well, adding something else the audience eyes would be attracted together.
This slice was a basic colour balance (Image > Adjustments > Colour Balance) change, and I chose to use green as this usually connotes nature and environmentally friendly, which is the meaning I'm trying to show behind the photos.
This slice is was changed by using a filter (Filter > Filter Gallery), this one I chose to use the 'Glowing Edges', I liked the effect this filter gave as it outlined the twigs and even distant objects, but I also liked it because it isn't just a plain colour but a mix of colours, and this goes well against the black background as it's black and because these colours are bright and glowing they contrast well against this dark background.
This slice is yet another filter in which this time I chose the 'Grain' filter, this is different to the other slices as it keeps he original colour, but to give its own uniqueness to the other slices in which it looks like it has a texture, or that it's a different material, like it's woven like a tapestry.
Layers Edit
This is the original Photograph I had taken.
What I did with this photo is turn down the opacity of the original photograph below and then placed it on the photograph above in a separate layer, I did this because they both have the photographic element of leading lines, and so they both fitted well together.
Filter & Hue/Saturation Edit
This is the original Photograph I had taken.
I used the Hue/Saturation adjustment on the photo again, but this time to make the photo monochrome, this is because I wanted to make sure the white feather was the point of interests and that the audience doesn't link it to anything else in the photo, so now the the feather would stand out from everything else in the photo. I wanted to do this to emphasise on the fact it is on it's own, and like I said in the planning of the shoot, I want to show a meaning of tranquility and to do with being alone can normally connote peaceful and quite.
Next I used a filter, and this is the 'Ocean Ripple' filter. I used it to create the effect that the photograph is under water, or maybe even a river stream, which there was one going through Shirtcliff woods, and I want to do this to show the theme of nature as one thing you see a lot in nature is river streams.
Desaturation Monochrome Edit
This is the original Photograph I had taken.
All I did with this photo was edit the saturation levels to its lowest to make the image monochrome, I did this as it makes the Sun and the light coming through the trees stand out more compared to the silhouette like trees. It also helps make the Sun a point of interest as it contrasts very well against the rest of the image which is has a much darker tone.
Gradient Map Monochrome Edit
This is the original Photograph I had taken.
This photo is very similar to the previous as all I did with this one was too make it monochrome . This time I used the gradient map which has a preset for this, it doesn't feel as dense as the monochrome done by desaturation, but I feel it works out as you can see the reflection on the trees leaves and twigs. It also casts a few shadows and also the silhouette of the trees, which I hadn't planned on using in my Photographs, but now the monochrome helps make them stand out a bit more due to there now being no colour on the trees when there in monochrome, it also contrasts against the sun and sky which are white/light grey.
Glowing Edge Filter Edit
This is the original Photograph I had taken.
I then used the filter (Filters > Filter Gallery) 'Glowing Edges', this makes the image look like it is made out of neon lights, but the colours are more random and expressed than ordinary neon lights. It also made the sky black, this helps the bright neon like colours contrast against it. I like this filter because it makes the twigs look more like veins, nerve endings or even plant roots.
This is the original Photograph I had taken.
For this photo I decided to Posterize (Image > Adjustments > Posterize), I didn't w ant to be too strong so I made it a level 4, and it came out as well in my opinion. it isn't too posterised that you can't see any of the details and it isn't done too little that you can't tell it's posterised. I also like this filter because it has made the foreground that was in focus less posterised giving it more detail, and then the background that is out of focus (Depth of Field) is more posterised and has less details, this makes the foreground become more eye catching compared to the rest of the photo.












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